Frequently Asked Questions

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• Can I repair my damaged floor?

  Typically yes. For minor scratches or dents the use of a touch up kit can repair damaged boards. To purchase a touch up kit recommended and approved for Anderson floors, please visit www.floorcleaners.net to purchase a kit. If damage cannot be repaired by a touch-up kit, single board replacements can be performed by a certified installer.

• Can I install a hardwood floor in a full bathroom?

  Installing a wood floor in a full bathroom is not recommended due the high moisture associated with these areas which can increase the potential for problems to develop.

• Can I install an engineered floor over a concrete subfloor?

  The benefit of an engineered floor is that in most cases it can be installed directly over a concrete substrate that is clean, flat, dry and structurally sound. See the installation guidelines for more detailed installation guidelines.

• What is the recommended trowel to use with the A.F.B. Engineered Flooring Adhesive™?

  The recommended trowel is determined by the width of the product. For products 4 ½" in width or less use a 3/16"x3/16"x3/16" square notch trowel. For products wider than 4 ½" use a ¼" x ¼"x ¼" square notch trowel.

• Is the warranty on my floor transferable?

  No -The warranty applies only to the original purchaser of the floor. As the purchaser, you must register the floor and keep a record of your purchase.

• What is the recommended expansion space for ¾” solid plank flooring?

  Expansion space of ¾” must be left around the perimeter of the room and at all vertical obstructions. More or less spacing may be needed depending on the geographical region, interior climate, and or time of the year. When additional spacing is needed this can be accomplished by inserting thin spacers or washers above the tongue every 10 to 20 rows and then removed after several adjacent rows have been installed and/or start in the center of the room working in two directions.

• What is the recommended tolerance for the subfloor to be flat?

  The sub floor must be flat, meeting a minimum of 3/16” within 10’ or 1/8” in 6’. To check for flatness use a 6 foot level or other means to locate high or low spots.

• How do I care for my recently purchased floor?

  By observing a few precautions and setting up a regular cleaning routine and maintenance program, you can expect years of beauty from your Anderson floor. The following are examples of the reasonable and necessary maintenance you are expected to perform. They are not intended to be an exclusive list.

  • Sweep or vacuum regularly since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR HEAD.
  • Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and cleaning products recommended by Anderson.
  • NEVER wet-mop, damp-mop, or flood your floor with water or other products. This can severely damage the flooring and will void the warranties. The use of Dry Swiffer® by Proctor & Gamble, or other similar product, is highly recommended. Do not use hardwood floor cleaning machines. See section on Improper Maintenance.
  • The use of Anderson-approved maintenance and floor-care products, including but not limited to BonaX Swedish Formula Hardwood Flooring Cleaner and Basic Coating Squeaky Hardwood Floor Cleaner, is highly recommended.
  • IMPORTANT: Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax products or other household cleaners that contain lemon oil, tung oil, silicon or ammonia since these warranties do not cover damage caused by non-recommended products. Use of these and other such products will harm the long-term performance of your floor and may also affect its recoat ability.
  • Keep pets’ nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil, and stains.
  • Place protective pads beneath furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches and dents.
  • Use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood when moving heavy objects, furniture, or appliances.
  • Make certain furniture casters are clean and operate properly (a minimum 1” width is recommended).
  • Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on floor.
  • Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the oxidation and aging of wood and fabrics. This causes the stain and/or wood to fade and/or to change color. We recommend that you rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the floor ages evenly. These warranties do not cover damage from the sun and its UV rays.
  • Use area rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points (e.g., stair landings, room entries, etc.), especially if you have a large family or indoor pets.

• Can solid plank floors be glued down?

  No, solid plank flooring is not recommended for a glue down installation. Solid plank flooring can installed using either a nail or staple down method to an approved wood type subfloor. Planks can be fastened to a wood substrate that has been properly installed over a concrete subfloor – Contact the National Wood Flooring Association at http://www.woodfloors.org/consumer/ for more specific information.

• What is the maximum moisture content for wood subfloors?

  Test wood sub floors and wood flooring for moisture content using a pin-type moisture meter. The moisture content of the subfloor should not exceed 13% for engineered products and the moisture content of the wood should be within 4% of the subfloor’s moisture content. For ¾” solid plank flooring the subfloor should not exceed 12% and the moisture content of the flooring should be within 3% of the subfloor’s moisture content.

• How can I test for moisture content of a concrete slab?

  Currently there are several methods to test concrete for moisture. One of most recognized by the floorcovering industry is the Calcium Chloride Test Method which requires that three CaCl tests be performed per 1000 square feet of concrete and one additional for each additional 1000 square feet of concrete. For more information go to www.vaportest.com

• What can I use to remove adhesive from the surface of the wood?

  If using A.F.B. Engineered Flooring Adhesive™ use a clean rag with water to remove wet adhesive. For dried adhesive use a clean rag and mineral spirits to remove adhesive. If using A.F.B. Urethane Adhesive™ use a rag and mineral spirits to remove wet adhesive, DO NOT pour mineral spirits directly on the floor.

  To remove A.F.B. Urethane Adhesive™ use a rag and mineral spirits to remove wet adhesive and be sure to remove the residual film as you are working To remove dried adhesive use Parabond Urethane Adhesive Cleaner. Caution: This adhesive is very difficult to remove from urethane finishes if allowed to dry. Be sure to keep all adhesive removed from the finish while the adhesive is still wet.

• What is the recommended dry time once A.F.B. Moisture-Shield™ has been applied?

  Allow 24 hours to dry prior to installing wood flooring over the applied A.F.B. Moisture-Shield™.

• What is the proper spread rate for A.F.B. Moisture-Shield™?

  A.F.B. Moisture-Shield™ should be applied at a rate of 175 square feet per gallon. One 4 gallon pail should cover approximately 700 square feet of concrete. To ensure the proper spread rate use a chalk line to grid the area into 175 square foot areas and apply one gallon per square.

• What is the difference between laminate, engineered and solid wood flooring?

  Laminate: pressed particle board with a photograph of wood applied to the surface.
  Laminate flooring contains NO actual wood. It can be installed almost anywhere, using a click together or glue installation.
  
  Solid: Generally a 3/4” thick solid piece of wood. It can be installed on or above grade by a staple or nail down application.
  
  Engineered: Flooring made up of layers of real wood veneers. The graining of each layer runs in the opposite direction of the layer above and below it, thus acting as a check and balance system, keeping the wood from expanding or shrinking too far in one direction. Engineered floors are ideal for areas of high humidity or dramatic temperature changes. It can be installed above, on or below grade using glue, nail, staple or floating applications.

• Is engineered flooring real wood?

  Yes, engineered flooring is made up of real wood veneers (generally3, 5 or 7 plys) . The graining of each layer runs in the opposite direction of the layer above and below it, thus acting as a check and balance system, keeping the wood from expanding or shrinking too far in one direction.

• What does “floating” a floor mean?

  All engineered Anderson flooring wider than 3” can be floated. This refers to an installation procedure where the tongue and grooves of the boards are glued together, but the floor is not glued directly onto the sub-floor. The weight of the floor itself holds it in place. This type of installation is ideal for an uneven or otherwise unacceptable sub-floor.

• How do I register my floor?

  There are several ways to register your floor after purchase. The warranty and maintenance brochure contains a warranty registration card – simply fill the information out and drop it in the mail. The second option is to simply register your floor on-line at www.andersonfloors.com or www.appalachianfloors.com Remember to keep a copy of your receipt to show proof of purchase in the event there is a problem with your floor.